From there, machin laptop detects the center of the bore in the fixture plate and generates some G-code to send over to the mill. Would you like to learn about some software that lets you perform 5 essential tests on your g-code before it goes imlling the machine? They seem to produce a much nicer result. I've never used one but I have a problem with the concept. Joined: Jul 9, Messages: 7, Likes Received: Or that it will never require a touch up? The shop has a small plastic box full of drilled-out screws that Optical centering device milling machine webcam save for the heck of it. This is a great start. Joined: Mar 3, Messages: Likes Received: 5.
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The CCD camera system webbcam register marks on the workpiece or the edges of the workpiece itself. Here is an example:. I actually edgeand surface Otical to about. Move to the next feature. By using our website and services, you expressly agree to the placement of our performance, functionality and advertising cookies. Before beginning this project I knew there would be a need to macbine stepper-motor adapters and other hardware components to a higher degree of precision and accuracy than I routinely care about. Page 1 of 3 1 2 3 Deevice Jump to page:. You need to pick a reference point on the part and that is usually some edge or corner in the part. If it would work, an inexpensive underwater diving Adverage penile size could encase the camera and provide a level of protection from chips and coolant spray. Scribed lines have a variable width and the center of the line is Optical centering device milling machine webcam always at the center of the dimension. Thread Tools Show Printable Version. The best part was that it went from a contact situation having to physically probe something to just imaging it, and you could even use monochromatic light sources to improve resolution and accuracy. I could see them being handy for approximately centering over a broken Optical centering device milling machine webcam or tap. There was the expectation that it would be fun to play with and useful in some specific applications, but Centerinb had no idea how immediately useful and indispensable it would become. Forum Rules.
All of this was brought together on a PCB specifically designed to be single-sided smart!
- Forum Rules.
- With a CCD camera which is mounted at the z axis of the CNC milling machine, you can optically measure your workpieces or register marks which are printed on it.
- Forum Rules.
- A CNC machine can take care of the relative positioning, but if you already have half your holes drilled, you also need absolute positioning.
- One of these projects was the fabrication of a video camera that could be swapped for the milling cutter and used to precisely place a target under the cutter visually rather than by the numbers.
One of these projects was the fabrication of a video camera that could be swapped for the milling cutter and used to precisely place a target under the cutter visually rather than by the numbers. Before beginning this project I knew there would be a need to machine stepper-motor adapters and other hardware components to a higher degree of precision and accuracy than I routinely care about.
And since many of the parts would have to mate with the machine castings, I needed a way to measure dimensions and hole spacings more accurately than by simply using a dial caliper.
I incorporated many of their ideas into this design and added a few of my own, including the ability to adjust the tilt the vertical axis of the camera.
I went ahead and built this without thinking too much about how it would ultimately be used. There was the expectation that it would be fun to play with and useful in some specific applications, but I had no idea how immediately useful and indispensable it would become. The mill-cam has also been used as a lathe-cam a few times too — mounted in a tailstock chuck it will give a magnified view of a workpiece being centered in a four-jaw chuck.
I can think of at least three ways of using the mill-cam as a measuring or positioning aid, and there are no doubt many more. All of these will be aided by using the camera viewer function built into Mach3 , a popular CNC machine control software application offered by Newfangled Solutions, and a free Mach3 Camera Plugin by Klaus Dietz that adds crosshairs and other reference features to the camera view screen.
Mach3 may be used in demo mode when serving as a webcam viewer; there is no need to purchase a license for this application.
Please see the note pertaining to camera plugin resolutions at the end of this article. Camera Plugin by K. This is extremely useful for accurately measuring hole layouts or other features on a fixed plane of a casting or previously machined part. The camera does NOT need to be aligned with the milling machine spindle as long as it remains in a fixed position throughout the measurement process.
Simply adding a shaft to the back of a plastic-cased webcam can serve this function as long as it is reasonably rigid. Here is an example:. The target on the workpiece, whether an edge, a punch mark or a scribed mark is aligned with the image crosshairs, and then the camera is removed and again replaced with the cutter.
Keeping the camera in alignment for absolute measurements requires some effort — the camera must be handled like an egg and checked periodically by manually rotating the camera through degrees when mounted in the spindle to ensure that a point target remains centered. The target is imaged, then the offset adjustment is made by moving the mill table to put the target under the cutter.
The critical alignment requirements for the camera are the same as for 2 above, although the lateral and tilt if used adjustments can be built into the offset mount instead of around the image module itself, and also the camera should stay in alignment more easily without the need for frequent handling.
Slop in the quill can allow changes in the angular relationship between the camera and the spindle axis. I think if I planned to use this method I would build a rigid camera mount that also incorporated a couple of preloaded bearings riding a vertical rail mounted rigidly to the head casting to provide that essential rotational stability.
Alternatively you could avoid the quill mount altogether and just hang the camera rigidly on the head itself at a fixed offset from the spindle, but you lose the essential ability to quill-focus on a round-column mill drill. Knee mills or square-column mills with Z-axis ways would not have a problem. A distinct advantage that a camera offers over a mechanical test indicator is that you have the ability to use your brain to instantly average the alignment to imperfect edges. A rough edge will appear as fluctuations on a dial indicator, but visually setting a crosshair line on the average of that same rough edge is a very fast process.
The camera can differentiate between the surface chamfer of a hole or edge and the true hole diameter or true edge simply by using the quill feed to set the focus slightly deeper. A chatter mark or other defect from a milling cutter can be seen and ignored as an outlier when homing in on the optimum workpiece position. Some have discussed the use of image scaling and using some type of on-screen graticule for making direct visual measurements rather than by moving and centering features on the screen and taking measurements using the DRO.
I chose to only use the center of the image as a valid reference point; the work is always moved to the center and nothing off that center is considered positionally valid. Although I still do not have a handy location for my shop laptop that I use for viewing the camera, I find that I am using the mill-cam more and more and using my Mitutoyo test indicator less.
Eventually I will have my CNC mill set up immediately adjacent to the manual mill-drilll and I expect to be able to use its computer and monitor for the mill-cam viewer. A webcam with the ability to be manually focused rather than one that auto-focuses at a very close range was necessary in order to achieve the high magnification required to resolve below.
Ideally the image module guts of the chosen webcam would be contained on a single squarish form-factor circuit board. In designing the housing for the image module, the image sensor of the camera module would need to be adjustable horizontally within the canister housing to allow precise alignment of the image center with the spindle center.
And although webcam lenses that focus by screwing in and out on plastic threads are fine for normal focal ranges, the focuser would have to be modified to be more stable at high magnifications, essentially removing any slop in the threads and the lens barrel.
The concept that most have followed to achieve these ends has been to mount the image module on a compact cylindrical base, and then suspend that base within a larger canister by four adjustment screws such that the image module can be aligned to the spindle center in the same way as a four-jaw lathe chuck centers a workpiece.
Supplementing this I also added four adjustment screws to the bottom of the aluminum canister in order to tilt the plane on which the base rests, allowing the image sensor to be pointed exactly vertical to account for minor variations in the image board and lens assemblies. Early on I toyed with the idea of a design where the USB cable connection to the camera was free to spin on bearings and the four connections to the image module were made through a custom slip-ring contact made from a circular printed circuit board and some type of adapted spring contacts from a connector.
This would allow the camera to spin freely for alignment without taking the cable with it. Choosing a Webcam and Making the Components. I got lucky when I searched for a webcam on Amazon. It had manual focus with a very close focus range, and for that price it would be most definitely be worth a try.
As it turned out the camera was perfect for the application. The circuit board is small, image quality is very good, and even though the lens shows pincushion and focus distortion at very close range, it does seem to be of decent quality in the center of the field of view, which is all that really matters I never attempt to use scaling.
I need to move my lights around so much to optimize the lighting angle under various conditions that I suspect that incorporating integral LEDs into a mill-cam may not be as universally useful as it might appear. The webcam was disassembled and the image module was removed from the plastic case. The webcam has a pushbutton used for still captures which I removed. The LEDs were also removed from the circuit board.
The cylindrical base for the image module mount was made from acetal Delrin. The plastic would eliminate worries about any part of the circuit board shorting and would also provide a silky smooth bore for the knurled aluminum lens barrel that the plastic lens mount would be pressed into. The plastic threads of the lens focuser are still used, but the concentricity of the lens is maintained by the close fit of the aluminum lens barrel in the acetal base.
The canister and cover were machined from aluminum, and the shaft was machined from 12L14 with a taper on one end that matches the hole taper in the aluminum cover. A piece of blue spring steel was bent to firmly press the acetal base and image module toward the four set screws on the lens-end of the canister.
These four screws adjust the tilt of the image module so that it can be conceivably set to be perfectly perpendicular to the spindle axis. Three screws would provide full support but four makes it easier to separately tilt the X and Y axes at the expense of having to make sure that all four screws actually apply pressure. Three will take the load and one screw will slack off until you find it and tighten it a bit.
I had envisioned a mill-cam that I would use for both micro and macro views, allowing me to swiftly spin the focuser to the desired field of view and line up to an edge or the center of a hole.
I soon learned that this would not be the case. The first thing I noticed was the amount of image wobble present with each rotation of the focuser. The focuser barrel was tight and repeatable, but the lens was clearly not concentric or perfectly perpendicular to the rotation axis in the plastic housing that was pressed into the precision knurled focuser barrel. This meant that any attempt to absolutely align the image center for using crosshairs as described earlier with the center of the spindle shaft would only be valid it the focuser barrel was left untouched.
Since adjustment of the alignment, like adjusting a four-jaw chuck, is not a particularly fun operation, I have settled into using the camera at a fixed magnification and a fixed focal range.
This unfortunate fact also lessens the need to build the tilting capability into the design. The intent was to ensure that a point feature at the center of the screen punch mark or scribed lines would remain in a fixed position as the magnification and focal plane changed, meaning that the camera was looking straight down and not off at a slight vertical angle. This translates to a focal distance of less than.
I thought that removing it might improve the low light capability a bit so I tried to pop it loose. I have found that I no longer try to think about where I am or anticipate what an adjustment will do.
I just work reactively, making a small adjustment and observing whether it is in the right direction and reversing if it is not. So when you start off you will need to first jockey the x-y table to center the target under the spindle, and then adjust and the mill-cam centering screws.
The results may not be what you expect at first. THEN adjust the four side setscrews on the mill-cam body to move that stationary reference point to the center of your image.
For some reason my screen capture utility was conflicting with Mach3 or the camera plugin and I was unable to obtain any screen captures of the mill-cam viewer. I resorted to snapping some photos of my laptop screen with various items under the camera to give an idea of the scale and field of view. The actual screen images seem somewhat better than the photos would indicate and in the region of sharpest focus they do indeed appear as if they could have the p HD resolution as advertised.
Again keep in mind that the magnification and field of view can be varied to suit your own tastes. This is where I keep my camera focused and aligned, and at these settings I can see visual changes well before my. I have had greater success using the V2. Dietz than with the recent beta release V3. Although the V2. The three available image resolutions are limited to a maximum of x , and if you should choose one of the lower resolutions there seems to be no way of getting back to x short of uninstalling and reinstalling the plugin.
Although I only tried it once, V3. It will then appear as one of the available choices under the Plugin Control header. Software Disk Included. Inside Views of Canister and Cover.
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Robosilo I was asking myself the same question I could see them being handy for approximately centering over a broken screw or tap. I need to move my lights around so much to optimize the lighting angle under various conditions that I suspect that incorporating integral LEDs into a mill-cam may not be as universally useful as it might appear. I got lucky when I searched for a webcam on Amazon. That is usually done a special microscope that is designed for such use and as Starbolin said, really good quality optics. I have a titan, looks a lot like the skoal, may be nicer, may not be.
Optical centering device milling machine webcam. BUY IT NOW
So fast forward, I bought the one you linked to If that's what I wanted to do, I could grab a wiggler and Optivisor tm and zero in on scribe lines faster and likely be closer. The retical on those things are not all that fine and not that well centered, depth of field is damn near non-existent and right on top of the work. I tired it once and gave it to a hobby guy with a new mill drill. Mill-drill owners like to suffer! And even if you like that centering scope in theory, it's really small.
Put it in a B'port J-head and you'll be doing good to wrap head around the B'port head to access the eye piece. I cannot even imaging climbing up on the deck of a " VTL to dink around with one. That confirms my suspicions. It's more for people who do scribe mark type work and center punching. I was thinking that it might double as an optical comparator and measure feature to feature while still on the machine but it doesn't sound like the recticle no giggling has more than a cross-hair.
Centering scope is used on sinker EDM here once in a while but not very often. Centering scopes can be useful for picking up small features, but not for general edge finding. A scope doesn't get used often, but when it's needed, it's needed. We use them around here when we have to drill out a broken or a screw. The shop has a small plastic box full of drilled-out screws that they save for the heck of it.
I need to replace it. Originally Posted by robosilo. I think you will find most centering scopes too much of a head banger to be useful. There have been quite a few discussions of folks using inexpensive USB microscopes, which I would like to know more about I work from a wheelchair and getting up to see the parts is usually impossible for me. I normally use a 3D taster cheap Chinese copy of a Haimer for edge location and an indicator for holes, but I'd really like to investigate a webcam or something to be able to just get a close view I've got mirrors on handles and all sorts of half assed stuff.
It would be nice to have a monitor sitting there with a picture, maybe even two, a webcam aligned with X and one with Y. So, if anybody has had experience with what did or didn't work in that type of situation, I'd like to hear it. Lots of good info and opinions. I've seen the webcam units used for centering but I liked the idea of a device that didn't have cords or require a computer.
Brian, I found anything with enough clarity and magnification but cheap had incredibly short focal length, and the "zoom" is a function of how close you can get the camera. I actually edgeand surface found to about. I think a decent brand borescope would do you much better. I use them all the time for jig bore work, they are often the only way to pick up small features on small parts. I would be just as happy with indicators if they could reach inside sub-millimeter holes easily Biggest issue is repeatability.
Hauser dealt with this by having the scope mount on 3 points on the exterior of the quill. The SIP I use to use had a taper mounted scope, that was of course practically perfect and working in a practically perfect bore - very very good.
My favorite scope is the Hensoldt scope that Deckel used for their LK borer. Integral with the 40 taper shank and dead nuts every time.
Scopes with straight shanks have too many possible errors introduced, integral shanks with the machine taper are way better. On a mill, and depending on the level of precision needed, the machine geometry can mess with you too.
For me they are only useful on parts that are too small to deal with with other means of aligning; and parts that small requiring work done on them generally need a fairly high level of precision, so they are ideal for jig borers, which are ideal for scope use.
The few times I could have used one on a mill and had one available I figured out another way to line up the work rather than deal with all the hassles of alignment errors of the scope. We use a centering scope at work on a Kern for material that is too delicate and small for traditional methods. Again, I'm not as concerned about doing any alignment, like with crosshairs in the picture, but just want to be able to get a close view of where the tool is and maybe the edges of the parts.
I have considered taking one of my older digital camera's, little point and shoot Canon Elf If it would work, an inexpensive underwater diving case could encase the camera and provide a level of protection from chips and coolant spray. I stick mine in some cheap copy NOGA type indicator bases. I have 1 of them similar to this. I was more interested in remote monitering my machine tools while I worked elsewhere, so I used YAWCAM to serve the feeds over my wireless and view with smartphone from anywhere in range.
I eventually bought a stand alone wireless security camera that servs it's own live feed. I've used them a few times, but only on items that had no reference points. At one time they would have been handy Then put the scope back in and re-zero it. Move to the next feature. Drill and bore. Gets pretty tedious. Even if the scope maintains acceptable zero there will be a LOT of knee cranking going on between features.
For max accuracy they would have used machinist buttons instead of a scope. I own a couple of them. At one point I thought they might be handy until I discovered how limited they are. Perhaps someday I will think up of a good use where they are the ideal tool for the job. It hasn't happened yet. I hope someone who has used them can tell us about a good use. Probably the most unused bit of equipment I ever bought. ISTR mine needed calibrating too, defiinitely end up banging your head when you need to look through to set it up ?
Honestly, it may well be a essential piece of kit for some people. I tried it a few times and it's gathered dust on the shelf ever since. If you were in the UK I'd be happy to sell you mine cheap. I have a Skoal like the one pictured WHHJR liked this post. One good use is for work where you transfer hole locations from an existing part or template.
A DRO won't help you there and the centering scope can be a bit faster than trying to pick up punch locations with various types of indicator. I suppose they could also be used, with table motions and a DRO, as a poor man's inspection scope; if you happen to have a mill where the ergonomics wouldn't be a total pain. Find one feature, zero the DRO, then crank to find another feature. There are better methods of picking up the single origin point typically needed.
My answer the question in the title to this thread is, yes, they are handy. As an example of a job where a DTI wouldn't have worked, I needed to extract a broken screw approx. The jagged portion of the screw partially protruding from the housing made use of a DTI impossible, but with a centering scope it was trivial to center the spindle directly over the broken screw. If you don't bump the adjusting screws there is no need to "calibrate" i. However, it is easy and fast to do it so I do it every time.
It takes no longer than the process to zero the DTI when using one of them to center the hole. As for magnification, you have to decide what you're likely to use it for. Higher magnification gives higher resolution, but it also give a smaller field of view.
My Titan model Y-1 is 20x, with 0. Personally, 0. Unless someone has a specific, immediate need for it, I wouldn't recommend a centering scope to be their first purchase for centering purposes. However, unlike some of the other replies, I would very much hate to be without mine. For certain specialized tasks there is no substitute that I am aware of.
I should add that my mill has a 4-axis DRO. Having the DRO does not eliminate my need for the centering scope. Originally Posted by opscimc. It is not something you use instead of an edge finder, 3d taster, touch probe, or indicator. It IS something very handy for certain tasks, sometimes kind of bizarre, where those things won't help you. I have a titan, looks a lot like the skoal, may be nicer, may not be. AlfaGTA , Colt45 liked this post. I find them handy when I have to work off scribed lines.
I thought about buying one but I would like to try it before I spend money on one. I bought a Japanese centering scope about years ago. I also bought a Blake Co-Ax indicator. I use the scope whenever I have scribed lines marking drilled hole locations that need to be accurate. The Blake is not so good for that job because it needs a center punch mark.
The scope is more accurate than I can punch mark the intersection of scribed lines, even with the cute little Starrett magnifying hammer. A little blob of modeling clay and a sewing needle can't be beat for speed if you only need a few thousandths of location accuracy. The Blake indicator is great for locating on an existing bore, which is not nearly as convenient with the scope. I have no DRO on my mills. I don't see where one would help find scribed lines.
I did put a DRO on one of my lathes, so I am not totally rejecting progress. Both times to pick up scribe marks on a part where using the scope was the only way to do it. I don't use it much, but when needed, they can be hard to beat. However, all the downsides others have mentioned apply: recalibrating, banging your head, small field of view, small depth of field, etc, etc. Before you get one, decide if you have work where you need one for something you can't do any other way, or for which the hassle of using a scope is less than the hassle of finding the location any other way.
Cheers, --Hawk. Our toolmakers at the plant use them when they have to drill out a broken screw, usually a or an They have a small box with several hundred removed screws that they save for entertainment. As someone who has spent way too many hours looking through microscopes: eye relief and field of view are just as important as magnification and depth of field. These two specifications are often buried in the back off sales fliers if they are published at all. Eye relief is especially important for those of us with older eyes.
Often older scope users have to have their scopes modified so their tired eyes can still focus when using the scope. Microscope use is a task for young eyes.
Cam view manual
Submit Search. Successfully reported this slideshow. We use your LinkedIn profile and activity data to personalize ads and to show you more relevant ads. You can change your ad preferences anytime. Cam view manual. Upcoming SlideShare. Like this document? Why not share! Embed Size px.
Start on. Show related SlideShares at end. WordPress Shortcode. Published in: Design. Full Name Comment goes here. Are you sure you want to Yes No. Be the first to like this. No Downloads. Views Total views. Actions Shares. Embeds 0 No embeds. No notes for slide. Cam view manual 1. CamViewWhat is CamView? In this respect its like thousands of other programs BUT CamView has one twist that we think makes it useful for somespecial applications - it has an on screen graticule so your image can be referenced to a fixed point.
Why did DTec create CamView? Simple, whilst much of what DTec does is electronic - we also build lots of mechanical equipment as part of our research anddevelopment. What do I need to run Camview? You must have a video source, for example a WebCam installed and working on your PC. Install the video device usingwhatever software came with it and check that it works using one of the sample applications usually supplied. Once you have done that, install CamView by running the setup program supplied.
So What? Hints on making your ownfixture are provided later on The changes made usingthese scrollbars are not saved when CamView is closed. Use the Trim Menu to make permanent changes to Graticuleposition.
Given that the camera will not be a precise or constant distance from the workpiece the range rings do not represent anyspecific distance. Their major use is to assist in centring of circles, the ticks on the X and Y axis may also be of assistance.
Lighting can be important when locating an edge or hole - shadows in the wrong place can make location quite difficult. AWebCam with inbuilt lighting really helps in this regard. The angular lines are really only designed to provide a general indication. They should not be used for absolute anglemeasurements as the WebCam may not be exactly square to the machine axis. Each Device can be individually named and customGraticule positions defined and stored. These Settings are saved when you close theGraticule Trim window and will be available whenCamView is run again.
An onscreen warning will be displayed - this is normal, simply close CamView and reopen for normal operation. If the video Window is all grey, your video source is not operating correctly - exit CamView and refer to the installationmaterial supplied with your WebCam.
CamViewTips for Making your WebCam fixtureAccuracyIts somewhat important to get the optical centre of your WebCamin line with the mechanical centre of your drill, lathe or millsspindle if your going to use it to centre workpieces or locateedges.
Allow for some movement for calibration in your jig. FocusYou can usually screw the WebCams lens out quite a bit, allowingyou to focus on very close objects. Ours are set to around 10mm and at that distance you get quite adetailed view.
We needed to add a small washer between the lens and the body as when it was screwed out it ended up a bit loose - thewasher allows it to be tightened at the focal length you want. LightingThe WebCams we have tried have auto exposure control making them quite easy to use, WebCam Housinghowever sometimes extra light is a bonus.
If the spindle is started with theWebCam still mounted - bad things will occur. We recommend that the Emergency Stop on your machine is activated during the use of the Camera or the power ispositively isolated from the motor. Hope CamView is as much use to you as its been to us - enjoy! Ross McLean www. CamViewFreeware license termsThis Website contains certain downloadable software which does not require payment of any license fee.
Even though a license fee is not paid for use of such Freeware, it does not mean that there are not conditions forusing such Freeware. As a condition for granting you a license to DTec Freeware programs, you agree to all of the followingterms and conditions. You are deemed to have read, understand, and have accepted all such terms and conditions uponexecuting a download of any Freeware program. If you fail to abide by any of the terms and conditions set forth herein, your license to use such Freeware shallbe immediately and automatically revoked, without any notice or other action by the Copyright Owner.
You are granted a non-exclusive license to use the Downloaded Software subject to your compliancewith all of the terms and conditions of this Freeware License. You may only use the software on a single computer that you own, lease or control. You may make onebackup copy of the software for your own use to replace the primary copy in the event of hard-drivefailure or other unavailability of the primary copy.
The backup copy shall retain all copyright notices. You are only granted a license for the machine-readable, object code portion of the software. You willnot modify, enhance, reverse engineer or otherwise alter the software from its current state. You may not use the software for multiple users or on a local area network without written consent fromthe Licensor.
You may not distribute, copy, publish, assign, sell, bargain, convey, transfer, pledge, lease or grant anyfurther rights to use the software. You will not have any proprietary rights in and to the software. You acknowledge and agree that theLicensor retains all copyrights and other proprietary rights in and to the software.
Thislicense shall automatically terminate upon your violation of the terms hereof or upon your use of thesoftware beyond the scope of the license provided herein. Use within the scope of this license is free of charge and no royalty or licensing fees shall be payable byyou. Use beyond the scope of this license shall constitute copyright infringement.
This license shall be effective and bind you upon your downloading of the software. No representations and warranties aremade to you regarding any aspect of the software. This Freeware License shall be interpreted under Victorian law. You just clipped your first slide! Clipping is a handy way to collect important slides you want to go back to later. Now customize the name of a clipboard to store your clips. Visibility Others can see my Clipboard. Cancel Save.